giovedì 26 giugno 2008

Dolci al cucchiaio. Zuppa inglese, Trifle, Tipsy Cake, Charlotte, Bizcocho Borracho, Ambroisie

 
Dolci al cucchiaio. Prima di tutto tre raccolte: con la Frutta, con il Cioccolato, Di tutto un po'. Poi le le creme e i budini medio orientali: Balouza, Muhallabia, Gelo. Poi la famiglia delle Zuppe inglesi, (la trovate qui) con qualcosa da inzuppare in un liquore più della crema o della frutta. Quindi i Crumble e le Pie, dove c'è una teglia, della frutta e un coperchio di pasta, bricioloso per i primi, liscio per le seconde.

Zuppa inglese, Trifle, Tipsy Cake, Charlotte, Bizcocho Borracho, Ambroisie. Qualcosa da inzuppare, della crema, della frutta. Un dolce antico, adatto a avventurosi marinai che inzuppavano secchi biscotti nel rum, ma anche a regine che ricreavano la viziata gola con molli e freschi bocconcini. Un dolce che ha molto viaggiato, si è trasformato, si è vestito di abiti locali, ha ripreso a viaggiare lasciando tracce di sé in tutta Europa.

Ieri ci siamo detti: per cena? Zuppa inglese!  

Pan di spagna inzuppato di bagna all’arancia, crema pasticcera, pesche, ciliegie, menta piperita, riccioli di buccia di limone.



Anni fa inseguii su rete le radici di questo dolce, e raccolsi testi che mi accorgo non essere più rintracciabili, sconfermando la leggenda che una volta su rete, ogni cosa vi resta. 
 
Da un testo di cui ho perso la fonte:

Made popular during Victorian times, English Trifle is a close cousin of an Italian version called Zuppa Inglese ("English Soup"), and also seems distantly related to a Spanish dessert called "Bizcocho Borracho", brought back to England by Queen Mary I upon her marriage to the king of Spain. This Spanish dessert was translated literally as "Drunken Biscuits", because it too was a sherry-soaked sweet, that became a hidden device for the sipping of spirits in the royal court under the innocent guise of enjoying dessert. It eventually became known as "Tipsy Parson". Similarly, English Trifle is also known as "Tipsy Cake".

Idem:

Trifle Dessert préparé à la fin du XVIe siècle par les marins britanniques avec des biscuits de mer imbibés de tafia et recouvert d'une crème de type "patissière". Au XIXe siècle, le trifle se transforma en un biscuit de Savoie tartiné de confiture à la fraise, coupé en morceaux et imbibé de xérès, puis recouvert de crème anglaise et de crème Chantilly, avant d'être complètement enrobé d'amandes grillées. La zuppa inglese serait une variante de cette recette.

Da Chez Becky et Liz, blog de cuisine anglaise

Le nom vient du mot français trufle signifiant quelque chose de fantaisie. Il porte aussi le nom de Tipsy cake, Tipsy hedgehog. Aux Usa, on parle de Tipsy Parson et Tipsy Squire. Les premiers Trifle ressemblait aux fools, une purée de fruits mélangée à de la crème.


Da wikipedia:

Le plus ancien usage connu du nom trifle désignait une crème épaisse parfumée avec du sucre, du gingembre et de l’eau de rose, dont la recette fut publiée en Angleterre en 1596, dans un livre de Thomas Dawson intitulé "The good huswife's Jewell". Soixante ans plus tard, des œufs furent ajoutés et la crème fut versée sur du pain imprégné d'alcool. Des recherches indiquent que le trifle est dérivé d'un autre dessert similaire connu sous le nom de fool ou foole, et qu'à l'origine les deux noms étaient interchangeables

Idem:

The story of zuppa inglese, an all italian speciality.  Literally translated it means “English Soup”, but the only English link it has, is it’s distant relative called “trifle”, which is a traditional dessert made of a layer of soft pastry soaked in sweet wine and enriched with cream, jam and amaretti. Contrary to what one could think from the name the origin of the “zuppa inglese” is definitely Italian and to be more precisely from Ferrara, the ancient, noble Emilian city. It was here that this dessert was re-elaborated from it’s British origins and most of the ingredients creatively adapted to the local availability to create a well-balanced, harmonious sweet that is now a local speciality and also one of the most famous puddings. Once upon a time... The story of the “zuppa inglese” starts in the sixteenth century at the festive court of the Dukes of d’Este that gave the city a long and intense cultural and artistic period. At that time famous painters and writers livened the social life of Ferrara and diplomatic attachés intensified their relations with noble families in Italy and Europe. Contacts with the British Royal family were frequent and after one of his long stays in London one of the diplomats described the wonderful dessert (trifle) that had delighted him during his stay The Estense cooks at the Ferrara court tried to remake the sweet from the original recipe, but given the impossibility of finding the right ingredients they re-elaborated it with the available ingredients. The light egg dough was substituted with “bracciatella” a typical, soft, regional Easter cake that was eaten together with sweet wine. The whipped cream was substituted by pastry and chocolate cream. This is how the “zuppa inglese” was born. Variations on the Theme In the course of time further modifications were made to the recipe: delicate sponge cake took the place of “bracciatella” and to give it even more taste it was dipped in a variety of liqueurs, like Alkermes and cognac. As the sweet grew to become more and more famous also outside the region a number of varieties were created. In the Lazio region, for instance, it is served with a heap of whipped cream, while elsewhere it is covered with a delicate meringue covering shortly baked under a grill. Some prefer to use a light custard enriched with candied fruit, rather than the pastry cream. Others again completely leave out the chocolate cream and substitute the liqueur mix with a mixture of Alkermes and a light syrup. Others again add a layer of jam. There are also various schools of thought regarding the composition of the dessert: the more traditional insists it should be composed reverse in a glass dish (like a real soup bowl) and served like this or otherwise reversed onto a plate after having been cooled. Others prefer to give it the looks of a more classical cake and alternate round or rectangular pieces of sponge cake with the different creams. Further it has also become an ice cream flavour highly appreciated by the customers or, in some ice cream parlours, it is also served as a semi-freddo (cooled dessert). 

Idem:
En allemand, la charlotte aux framboises s'appelle «ambroisie», par référence à la nourriture des dieux de l'Olympe. Chez nous, ce dessert porte le nom plus prosaïque de charlotte, peut-être par référence à la femme du roi d'Angleterre Georges III. La charlotte aux framboises est en effet très proche du «trifle», un dessert anglais classique, ainsi que de la fameuse «charlotte à la russe» du grand cuisinier Carême. D'abord baptisée «charlotte à la parisienne», cette dernière changea de nom sous le second Empire durant lequel les plats «à la russe» étaient très en vogue. Dans ces desserts, on trouve trois ingrédients identiques: des fruits, de la crème et des biscuits à la cuiller imbibés d'une liqueur sucrée. Mais on n'est pas obligé d'utiliser des biscuits à la cuiller, on peut également employer du pain brioché grillé, des zwiebacks ou des restes de biscuits. Il est clair que cette recette peut changer à l'infini. Les fruits peuvent varier selon la saison, la liqueur peut être remplacée par du jus de fruits ou du sirop de sucre. Dans la cuisine de nos grands-mères, les biscuits étaient souvent remplacés par les restes du gâteau du dimanche ou des tranches de pain grillé.  




 

 

Zuppa tartara di Artusi


 

2 commenti:

papavero di campo ha detto...

oltre al recepito mi colpisce il recipiente, bello, estivo!

ps. marinai e regine e golosoni, tutti stesso girone

Artemisia Comina ha detto...

un piatto inglese, portato con me da una vacanza irlandese... ah le pecore che vagano sui colli, chi qua chi là, le strade che si attorcono, il mare che spunta. E ogni tanto, un Antik.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...